How To Tell Real Suede From Faux Suede

You can separate the two with four simple checks: look, feel, rub, and burn.

Look. Genuine suede has a fine, dense nap and an uneven pore pattern. Its surface is matte, without the plastic sheen of synthetics. Feel. It is soft and springy, and snaps back quickly when folded. Rub. A slightly damp white cloth leaves no dye and no water mark on real suede. Burn. A loose fibre smells like singed hair and crumbles easily into ash.

Faux suede is usually polyester or nylon. Its nap is uniform and shiny, the hand feels stiffer, static builds up quickly, dye rubs off on cloth, and it burns with black smoke, a sharp chemical smell, and a hard melted bead.

The care label gives the fastest answer: "cowhide", "sheepskin" or "pigskin" means real leather; "polyester", "nylon" or "viscose" means synthetic. Note, too, that most "suede fabric" sold today is microfibre faux suede. True suede is brushed leather and needs a special brush, never water.